So I’ve narrowed down ideas for my Italian gown! I’m going for Florence, 1500-1525, but with a unique sleeve from Rome (I haven’t spotted that particular sleeve type in any other portraits yet, but I’m calling it ‘historically plausible’ and going with it, because it’s my dress and I do what I want ;)
The final (ish) sketch is the center one above: Bodice stiffened with cord, ending at or just above my natural waist, with a wide square neck, side lacing, simple trim along all the edges (either a single wide stripe or a wide stripe + a narrow stripe). Full sleeves with a slit down the upper side, laced on at the shoulder (the sleeves in my reference picture look like they’re set-in, but most sleeves were pointed, and it’s more versatile), with a button closure at the wrist? Full skirt with guards around the hem (the matching the neckline but wider), and a double line up the center front (which may or may not be open), skirt knife pleated to the bodice with relatively narrow pleats—about an inch or an inch and a half, and probably made of rectangles, although I would kind of love to have a bit of a train. Not very practical, though, and would complicate things.
Underneath, a white camicia with a wide square neck and very full sleeves, and an underskirt with a stiffened hem (in red, I think).
The gown will be made of blue linen, with red linen trim and a red linen underskirt, the camicia will be either white linen or white cotton.
Collecting some references:
1520 FLORENTINE GOWN ALA BACCHIACCA dress diary
Florentine gown reference images and reproductions
Realm of Venus image gallery
Anea’s 1505 ‘Unicorn’ dress diary